The Veneto: Vicenza

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Vicenza usually brings to mind Palladio and his architecture (his real name: Andrea di Pietro). To really see the best of Palladio, you go outside the city to see the villas he designed. Having said that, there are some wonderful Palladian buildings in town and you’ll enjoy seeing them (as well as some other fine buildings). The town center is the beautiful Piazza dei Signori where you’ll find theVenetian inspired Basilica Palladiana (16^th century) which was built on top of a Gothic building. Interestingly, this was not built as a church, but rather as a gathering place for leaders of the town. The term basilica was first used by Palladio in reference to this palace of Justice. Inside is the Museo Palladiano. The 12^th century campanile/bell tower/Torre di Piazza/Torre Bissara is right next to the basilica and dates from the earlier building. Also in the square is the Palazzo del Comune which was at one time the home of Palladio’s patron (Trissino). The Loggia del Capitaniato/Loggia Bernardo is an unfinished Palladian design (16^th century). Do note the columns with the lions of St. Mark (Venetian rule). At Piazza Matteotti is one of Palladio’s most wonderful Renaissance designs, the Teatro Olimpico. This was the final Palladian building and the first covered theater in Europe. The building is made of wood and stucco painted to look like marble. The theater stage set has frescoes/trompe l’oeil by Scamozzi based on the Greek city of Thebes (you just have to see these to believe them). On Piazza del Duomo is the 14^th century duomo with its Gothic façade (rather colorful, red and white marble). Also in the square is the Palazzo Vescovile (bishop’s palace) with its lovely loggia. The main street of Vicenza is Corso Andrea Palladio. On this street and those just off, are fabulous Palladian buildings (by Palladio and his students). Worth noting are: Palazzo Chiericati (which houses the Museo Civico with fine paintings and a ceiling fresco by Carpione - gorgeous), Palazzo Da Schio, Palazzo Thiene, Palazzo Porto-Barbaran, Palazzo Isoppo da Porto and Palazzo Valmarana. The Chiesa di Santa Corona (13^th century) was built in honor of a relic from Christ’s Crown (a thorn). Inside are some wonderful paintings. The Rotonda/Villa Capra is a model for rotonda buildings all over the world. Noted for its symmetry and temple-like qualities - perfect. At the Villa Valmarana ai Nani (17^th century) you’ll enjoy the gardens with statues and inside you’ll find frescoes by Tiepolo and his son (well worth it). Ai Nani means dwarfs and you’ll find them on the gates that surround the villa. The Basilica di Monte Berico (15^th century) is just south of Vicenza (and close to Villa Valmarana) and sits beautifully on a hill (great views over town). The outside is domed and you reach it by walking under an arcade that stretches the length (almost) of Viale X Giugno. Inside there are frescoes, paintings and other treasures (check out the cloister). Market days in Vicenza are Tuesday and Thursday.