Venice
is a city for wandering….there’s something special
at every turn….I remember the first time I visited La
Serenissima (as it is called, which means The Serene Republic)….I
got on the correct vaporetto (*see tips — just remember
#1 or #82) and had my first view of the Grand Canal. This just
has to be your first impression of Venice….head up the
Grand Canal…..palazzi, bridges, cafes, people, boats, hotels,
gondolas, churches, balustrades….and water, water everywhere…..you’ll
see (and hear) the water lapping at the buildings (something
that now worries me as Venice continues to sink into the lagoon
— but there are those who are "successfully"
working on that problem). It is a gorgeous sight…..everything
has to be brought to Venice on the water — everything.
Venice actually came to the party a little late (historically
speaking), it was founded in the 9th century. But,
once Venice arrived, Venice could not be stopped….or so
it seemed….Venice was chic, powerful and rich because of
its strategic position and trade with the rest of the world.
At the end of the 15th century things changed and
Venice began to decline and was taken over by the Austrians
(via France) until 1866 when it joined Italy. Venice is built
on 117 islands with 400 bridges connecting the islands —
it is utterly amazing — nothing prepares you for Venice
(no matter how good your imagination happens to be)…….it’s
simply awe-inspiring and unforgettable……
I
always start in Piazza San Marco. It is a grand piazza
surrounded by a covered gallery where there are shops, cafes
(and music), flocks of pigeons, a campanile (10th
century) and much more. At one end of the piazza is the Basilica
di San Marco(11th century). The basilica is a
combination of Byzantine and Romanesque architecture and style.
There are five domes and five doors on the church as well as
arches, mosaics, marble, reliefs and the four bronze horses
(stolen from Constantinople in the 13th century).
Inside you’ll see the mosaics in the atrium. Watch for
the gold in the mosaics to catch the light of candles —
they sparkle. The high altar contains the remains of St. Mark/San
Marco and just behind that is the Baldacchino or Pala
d’Oro (a gold and jewel altarpiece with scenes from
the new testament — with 2000 precious stones). The Tesoro/Treasury
has items from Constantinople and a thorn from Christ’s
crown. As you exit, you’ll head over to the Ducal Palazzo/Doge’s
Palace, a 9th century residence for the Doge
(the ruler of Venice) and a government building. The pink marble
and white stone pattern on the facade is Venetian Gothic in
style. The building’s design, treasures and gilded décor
were meant to impress visitors (to awe them) by the display
of wealth, beauty and power — totally opulent. It succeeds
(with me) to this day….I’m just in constant awe of
this city and building. The palace is of interest architecturally
as the design is particularly top heavy. The bottom is a delicate
colonnade and the top is rather weighted (you’ll see).
Inside the palace you will find a profusely luxurious palace
with some beautiful paintings and rooms. You enter through the
Porta della Carta (paper door), an appropriate name as
all governmental decrees were posted on this door. As you pass
through the courtyard you’ll come upon the Scala dei
Giganti (giant’s stairway) with statues of Mars and
Neptune at the top. Just beyond, you reach the Scala d’Oro
(golden stairway) and the Sala della Quattro Porte (frescoes
by Tintoretto), the Sala dell’Antecollegio
(more Tintorettos), the Sala del Collegio (with the Doge’s
throne and paintings by Veronese), the Sala Bocca di Leone
(where you put messages/accusations in the Lion’s mouth),
the Sala del Senato (more Tintorettos) to the Sala
del Maggior Consiglio (Tintoretto’s Paradise is here,
as are the portraits of the Doges and other fine paintings).
As you head toward the prison, you cross the Ponte dei
Sospiri/The Bridge of Sighs, so-called as you could hear
the sighs as the prisoners crossed the bridge to the dungeons.
To see this bridge from the outside, you exit the Piazza San
Marco going toward the water and turn left, go up the large
staircase and as you hit the landing at the top, turn to your
left and you’ll see this beautiful bridge. The clock
tower/Torre dell’Orologio (15th century)
in the piazza has a blue face and is decorated with the zodiac
and phases of the moon. The hours are struck by the bronze Mori/Moors.
The Museo Correr chronicles the history of Venice
and the Doges in sculpture, paintings and artifacts. Opposite
the Doge’s Palace is the Libreria Sansoviniana (16th
century), a palazzo designed by Sansovino which houses the Libreria
Marciana and the Museo Archeologico. San Zaccaria
(15th century) church is a Gothic and Renaissance
mix. Inside (at the altar) is Bellini’s Madonna with Saints,
an Angel Musician and Sacra Conversazione as well as works by
other famous Venetian artists. The Rialto Bridge is a
symbol of Venice and was built in the 16th century
(several others collapsed until this stone bridge was constructed).
On the bridge you’ll find, shops, stalls, markets, art
and you can take some good photos of the Grand Canal from here.
Santi Giovanni e Paolo/San Zanipolo is a grand Gothic
church (14th century). Inside are tombs and monuments
to the doges. In the square/campo in front of the church is
the equestrian statue of Colleoni (commander of mercenaries).
Santa Maria dei Miracoli (15th century)
is a Renaissance church with marble inside and out along with
some fine sculptures. The Galleria dell’Accademia
has the most wonderful collection of paintings from the Venetian
school. It’s a relatively small museum just bursting with
treasures including: Paolo Veneziano’s Coronation of the
Virgin, Giorgione’s The Tempest, Carpaccio’s Healing
of the Madman, Veronese’s Feast in the House of Levi, Titian’s
Pieta and Presentation of the Virgin, Bellini’s altarpiece
from San Giobbe, his Madonna Enthroned and his Madonna and Child
between St. John the Baptist and a Saint, Cimi di Conigliano’s
Doubting Thomas, Tintoretto’s Miracle of St. Mark Freeing
a Slave, Lotto’s Portrait of a Young Gentleman and so much
more. This is a superb museum. Santa Maria della Salute
(17th century) is a Baroque church across the Grand
Canal from Piazza San Marco (it’s usually the first question
I’m asked when I arrive here with friends — "oooh,
what’s that?"). It was built as a gift of thanks to
the Virgin Mary for getting Venice through the plague. There’s
some fine art inside. The next question I get is "and what’s
that?" and it’s always Chiesa di San Giorgio
Maggiore on theIsland of San Giorgio. This church (16th
century) is by Palladio and has some Tintoretto’s inside
(The Last Supper and Gathering of the Manna and The Deposition).
There is an elevator to the top and the views from the campanile/bell
tower are wonderful. The Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
is an 18th century palazzo and was the home of Peggy
Guggenheim for 30 years (she died in 1979). Her collection of
modern art is housed here. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco
(16th century) has halls/walls/ceilings filled with
Tintorettos and is well worth the visit. Also in the square
is the Chiesa di San Rocco (15th century)
with paintings by Tintoretto. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari/I
Frari (14th century) is a large Gothic church
filled with fine art including Titian’s Assumption of the
Virgin, his Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro and Donatello’s
statue (in wood) of John the Baptist. There are several palazzi
which are also museums and are interesting to see as you get
the design and architectural (décor) of the palace while
also seeing some fine works of art. Ca’ d’Oro/House
of Gold (15th century) is a Gothic palazzo and
houses the Galleria Franchetti (Mantegna’s St. Sebastian).
Ca’ Rezzonico (17th century) is now the
Museo del Settecento Veneziano (Tiepolo’s frescoes,
the ballroom décor, furnishings and frescoes) and Ca’
Pesaro which houses the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte
Moderna and the Museo d’Arte Orientale. San
Sebastiano is a small church with paintings/frescoes by
Veronese (he’s buried here). The Ghetto Nuovo is
at Cannaregio. This is where the Jews were forced/confined in
the 15th and 16th centuries. Interestingly,
the Jews were allowed to worship as they wished. Also of interest
- this was the first ghetto ever….the word getto meant
foundry (in Venetian Italian) and was pronounced with a soft
G. The Museo Ebraico (Campo Ghetto Nuovo) has Jewish
art and artifacts. The area is quiet and worth a stroll if you
have time. The other islands are Murano, Burano
and Torcello. You can take a tour or just jump on a vaporetto
going that way (check the schedules). Murano is made
up of small islands connected by bridges. Murano is known for
its glassmaking and there are factories where you can tour and
watch the process. Also worth a look here is the Chiesa dei
Santi Maria e Donato, a 7th century Byzantine
church. There are some fine mosaic pavings here. Burano
is interesting, small and easy to tour. They make lace here.
There are many shops that sell linens and lace. Walk in to the
town and you’ll find a lane of brightly colored houses
and places to have lunch. There’s the lovely 7th
century Santa Maria dell’Assunta cathedral with
mosaics on Torcello.
There
are markets in Venice from Monday — Saturday.
*Need
information on Venice vaporetto and other transportation? Check
out: www.actv.it