Umbria: Spello, Bevagna & Montefalco

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Rating system: In Italy, hotels receive a ranking from 1 to 5 depending on the level of service, amenities offered and comfort. A 5 star hotel is very plush and a 1 star hotel is very basic. Farms and other unique establishments are often not rated. Read the descriptions here, visit the hotel's website and you'll never be disappointed.

IN MEDIEVAL CENTER

HOTEL PALAZZO BOCCI — Via Cavour 17 — Spello 06038 — ph: 0742301021 fx: 0742301464 — www.palazzobocci.com - email: info@palazzobocci.com

There are 23 rooms at this 4 star hotel in lovely Spello. There are 2 suites, 4 junior suites, 15 doubles and 2 singles — all beautiful…..The hotel is in the center of Spello and was the residence of the Bocci family (descendents of Pier Leone — a mercenary leader in the 1400s). The building dates back to the 1300s and has been renovated with care, keeping the history and décor intact. Frescoes, fireplaces, tiled floors, arched entryways, beamed ceilings, painted ceilings, painted moldings, lovely carpets, comfy couches, antiques — you’re staying in an historical home — no doubt about it. The rooms are large and come with shower, bath, TV, phone, minibar, safe, air conditioning, hair dryer and panoramic views (some of the rooms have terrace or balcony). The suites have Jacuzzi tubs. You feel as if you’ve entered the 18^th or 19^th century of Italy when you stay here…..The hotel is managed by Fabrizio Buono. The wonderful restaurant serves local and international cuisine. Some of the specialties served are tagliatelle alla Molino, minestra di farro and filetto alla pinturicchio — everything is good here! The garden, terrace and bar are lovely here too. To stay here while in Spello is just wonderful.

ALBERGO DEL TEATRO — Via Giulia 24 — Spello 06038 — ph: 0742301140 fx: 0742301612 - www.hoteldelteatro.it - email: info@hoteltdelteatro.it

In the center of Spello is this 3 star hotel that used to be an 18^th century mansion. It’s right in the middle of everything and incorporates parts of the medieval foundations that were once situated outside the Porta Del Mastro gate (you’ll see what I mean when you see the hotel). The rooms (there are 11) have bath, shower, TV, phone, minibar, safe and panoramic views. The décor is antique — pretty. Il Cacciatore is the restaurant here and they serve genuine Umbrian specialties like tagliatelle (handmade) alla Repine, agnello alle spreolo and other great items. The Cruciani family own and run the hotel. It’s a good spot.

L’ORTO DEGLI ANGELI — Corso Matteotti 30 — Bevagna 06031 — ph: 0742360130 fx: 0742361756 — www.ortoangeli.it - email: ortoangeli@ortoangeli.it

Can you say splendid? That’s exactly what this lovely inn is….I had heard about the fine restaurant (prior to a visit) and made a reservation while walking around town….I was struck by the lovely use of color in the entry and in the breakfast room…and again when I arrived for dinner….unique and gorgeous. I was met by lovely Serena (dressed in period costume) who offered to show me around the ancient mansion after my dinner. In actuality, there are two mansions that are connected by a hidden garden — truly magical. The mansions are from the 17^th and 18^th centuries, yet there are remnants of a Roman Theatre and temple that date to the 1^st century AD. The owners (descendents of Count Angeli Nieri Mongalli — yes, there is a Count is residence) actually live in the "inn" and have kept the furnishings as they would have been long ago, but have added modern features and comforts. The effect is truly wonderful….frescoes, coat of arms, a chapel, an old kitchen, fireplaces, fine paintings — absolute beauty. There are 9 rooms and 3 suites and more to come in the next year. You have all the comforts you’ll need. The restaurant is a treasure and there are several dining rooms decorated with great style. The food — exceptional — the chef is a master — many of the recipes have been handed down through generations — don’t skip dessert either! You cannot miss with this fine inn — the people here are sooooo nice!

PALAZZO BRUNAMONTI — Corso Matteotti 79 — Bevagna 06031 — ph: 0742361932 fx: 0742361948 — www.brunamonti.com - email: hotel@brunamonti.com

This is a wonderful 3 star palazzo in the center of town. There are 16 rooms, frescoed halls, warm colors, sloped ceilings, pretty art and a lovely breakfast room — this place is a find! I was most impressed by the bright and cheery (and smart) Carmen. She welcomed me upon arrival and while I was there also assisted with the breakfast — she’s an absolute delight! I have to say, everyone at the palazzo were helpful and friendly. The rooms are very nice and scattered over several floors. The décor is Italian rustic chic and pleasing to the eye (and my sensibilities). The rooms offer private bath/shower, phone, TV, minibar, air conditioning — everything you’ll need. My room was at the top of the hotel — we (there were 3 of us) had a sitting room and two bedrooms plus a bath. I understand there’s another similar room on the second floor. The other rooms are good in size and there is an elevator and a cocktail bar. Breakfast is very good and the breakfast room is lovely with paintings, frescoes and lovely decoration. The room just before the breakfast room has lovely murals — great for photo ops. The staff are willing to assist in any way to make your stay happy — mine sure was! This one is a favorite.

LOCANDA PIAZZA ONOFRI — Piazza Onofri — Bevagna 06031 — ph: 0742361926 — www.enotecaonafri.it - email: info@enotecaonofri.it

In addition to having a great wine bar, wine shop and restaurant — the Enoteca Piazza Onofri has 13 apartments appropriately named after wines….single, double and triple rooms just waiting for you! The apartments were made from former medieval buildings and all have kitchens, baths, antique and rustic décor — total comfort. Beamed ceilings, arched windows, stucco walls — country style. A great choice for a longer stay — great for a weekend too!

IL CHIOSTRO DI BEVAGNA - Corso Matteotti 107 - Bevagna 06031 - ph: 0742361987 fx: 0742369231 - www.ilchiostrodibevagna.com - email: info@ilchiostrodibevagna.com or moira@ilchiostrodibevagna.com or stefania@ilchiostrodibevagna.com or Fabio@ilchiostrodibevagna.com

Just down the street from the Palazzo Brunamonti I stumbled upon this 1 star albergo (great location)....this cloister and convent date from the early 14th century. The hotel is run by a nice couple who warmly welcome their guests. The style has been preserved and you'll like the lovely frescoes. The albergo offers 14 simple rooms with bath/shower, TV and views over the hills surrounding Bevagna. The public areas are nice and the breakfast tasty (in summer you have breakfast on the terrace overlooking the cloister). The cloister area is perfect for a reception, concerts or celebrations....there is parking here too!

OUTSIDE CITY — VILLAS/FARMS

MALVARINA COUNTRY INN — Localita Malvarina — Capodacqua di Assisi 06081 — ph/fx: 0758064280 — www.malvarina.it - email: malvarina@umbria.net or piera.belfiore@libero.it

This wonderful farm is 5 km from Assisi and 5 km from Spello — this is one great location! The main buildings and farmhouse date back to the mid 1700s. The farmhouse faces the valley of Assisi. From here you can walk to the ancient Abbey of San Benedetto (11^th century). The farm gets it’s name from the ancient fountain near the abbey. There are rooms, apartments and bedsits converted from barns, stables, old houses and cottages right on the farm. The owners of Malvarina live in Il Casale, the main house on the farm. The farm produces honey, cheese, jam, breads and grains, prosciutto, salami, wine and olive oil (you can buy it right on site) and all of it is served in the charming restaurant on the property (the restaurant is in the old cellar with a big fireplace). The rooms have a private bath and are furnished with local antiques and artwork. The effect is pretty and warm - antique. The apartments and cottages have a private bath and kitchen. The bedsits are small flats with several rooms, private bath and no kitchen. Again, you get classic country furniture and style here. Your host is Maria Maurillo. She and her son Claudio Fabrizi and his wife Patrizia (and their children) are gracious and charming hosts. Maria teaches Umbrian cooking and has been written up in Bon Appetit magazine among others (Bon Appetit called Malvarina a picture perfect property). Many Italian magazines have also written about this farm/inn. The dining room is located in part of the old wine cellar and is intimate and charming….the smells, the food and the pride Maria and her family take in their cooking is second to none. Some of the specialties are tagliatelle senza uova, cicherie, pollo alla Contadina and wonderful desserts. If I were going to come to this part of Italy and I had the time, I’d take a cooking course from Maria….then I’d go horseback riding to the small ancient villages……I’d tour the major cities and return at night to fabulous food and a great time — all of that right here at Malvarina……an absolute joy! There’s much more to do here like fishing, hiking, swimming, canyoning……..

VILLA PAMBUFFETTI — Viale Della Vittoria 20 — Montefalco 06036 — ph: 0742379417 fx: 0742379245 — www.villapambuffetti.com - email: info@villapambuffetti.it or info@selena.net

This is a 4 star villa that was at one time owned by a famous Italian writer (Gabriele D’Annunzio)….it is an absolutely beautiful oasis — a villa with a lovely garden for those who really wish to treat themselves….the rooms and suites are elegant and offer air conditioning, phone, TV, mini bar, safe and more finery….the restaurant is elegant, warm and welcoming — the food is terrific! There is a fabulous pool, wonderful public rooms, a bar, parking, cooking classes (super!) and much more. The villa can host receptions and other events. The staff are bright and always helpful — discreet. This hotel is a real treasure.

IL POGGIO DEI PETTIROSSI — Vocabolo Pilone 301 — Bevagna 06031 — ph: 0742361744 fx: 0742369238 — www.ilpoggiodeipettirossi.it - email: albergo@ilpoggiodeipettirossi.it

Rooms and apartments are offered at this 3 star "hotel" just above Bevagna. The rooms are simple, comfortable and well priced. They offer private facilities as well as phone and TV. The restaurant serves fine Umbrian cuisine, has a good wine cellar and half-board is offered. There’s a pool, grounds and a warm welcome at Il Poggio Dei Pettirossi.

VILLA MUSTAFA — Via Casale 71 — Montefalco 06036 — ph: 0742378329 fx: 0742378329 — www.villamustafa.it - email: info@villamustafa.it

3 rooms await you at Paola and Roberto Cirinei’s working farm and 19^th century villa. The home had once belonged to a singer and composer by the name of Mustafa….when he passed on, his family sold the manse to the Cirinei family who have owned it ever since. The rooms are spacious, rather elegant, comfortable and well cared for…there are 3. The breakfast is served in a charming room and is just enough to start you on your day of travels. There are a couple of sitting rooms for relaxing or planning your day — of course, Paola will offer touring as well as dining advice. A real find.