Tuscany: Castellina, Gaiole, Radda & Greve "In Chianti"

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You could just drive forever in the Chianti countryside…..rolling hills, charming towns, vineyards, olive groves, cypresses, more rolling hills, forests — the entire area is amazingly beautiful. Did I mention the wine? There’s plenty of that here and you’ll have fun sampling (and buying as you go)….In the 13^th century Castellina, Radda and Gaiole joined forces and started the Lega del Chianti. As you drive through this area you’ll see the black cock or Gallo Nero on signs everywhere. The Gallo Nero was the symbol of the Lega del Chianti and now is the symbol of Chianti Classico wine. Chianti has two main wine roads, the Chianti Fiorentino (Florence) and the Chianti Senese (Siena). Signs to watch for: Vendita diretta and degustare/degustazione - you can buy the wine there and you can taste the wine there.

Castellina in Chianti is a charming little town sitting on a hill. The town is perfectly preserved and its walls are still intact. You’ll find wine shops, trattorie, furniture shops and the fortress/Rocca on the hill. Via delle Volte is a vaulted/covered street — the best street in town. San Salvatore is the local church (small) with a painting of the Madonna and Child by Lorenzo di Bicci. Just outside of town (well marked) is an Etruscan tomb — actually there are 4 tombs, each with a separate entrance. They are called Ipogea Etrusco di Montecalvario. It’s a haunting place — a hill with tombs built in to the 4 sides…..The day I was there the wind was blowing, there was a mist and the place was a bit spooky. Remember to take change so you can light the tombs (put coins in the box and the lights go on).

Radda in Chianti is a small village that is very wine oriented (and charming). It sits in an area that is hilly (Monte del Chianti), as the town is situated in the middle of the Val di Pesa and the Val d’Arbia. Radda was a fortress town and some of the walls and towers are still there. The Palazzo Comunale (15^th century) is the center of the old town and has quite a collection of coats of arms and a fine fresco. The Palazzo del Podesta is a Renaissance building (15^th century) worth taking a look at for the coats of arms on the exterior. Note the clock on this building too (still chiming the hours….). The Chiesa di San Nicola is also worth a look. I love the little fountain just in front of the church.

Gaiole in Chianti is a nice town and, of course is known for its wine. You can easily stroll or drive through. I don’t spend too much time here, but I do go here to do some wine tasting and buying. Just south of Gaiole is the Gothic Castello di Meleto (11^th century). It has an imposing façade and is well worth a stop.

Greve in Chianti is a sweet town. The main square is the Piazza Matteotti (a triangular shaped piazza). Under the arcades that enclose the piazza, you’ll find wine shops, restaurants, food stores (salumeria) and other small boutiques (one hotel too). It’s a nice place to spend the night or have a meal. It truly is the center for wine in Chianti as each September the wine fair takes place right here. The Chiesa di Santa Croce has a fine 15^th century triptych by Bicci di Lorenzo along with some other fine works. Just outside town (to the west) is Montefioralle with an ancient castle and the Chiesa di Santo Stefano — a quick walk around this quiet village is well worth it. There’s parking at the entrance and you can make the circle about town and around quite easily. Greve in Chianti has a market on Saturday.