Tuscany: 
Montepulciano & Pienza

Hotels Restaurants Sights Shopping

Montepulciano sits high above the Val d’Orcia and the Val di Chiana — with views that are remarkable. The town is bustling and chic. Most people know Montepulciano because of its wine, the Vino Nobile. The streets climbing to the top (and to the Piazza Grande) are steep (much to see along the way, so take your time) and the area inside the town walls is car free (unless you have a permit to enter — or your hotel is there and you drive in, drop off the bags and re-park or have the hotel do it — whew!). The main square is Piazza Grande where you’ll find the duomo, the Palazzo Comunale, a cistern/well in the center, the Palazzo de’Nobili-Tarugi and other residences. The 16^th century duomo has a painting by Taddeo di Bartolo (the Assumption). The façade of the church is unfinished as is the bell tower. The Palazzo Comunale is a Gothic and crenelated building and is the town hall. You can climb to the top if you wish (great views). The Palazzo de’Nobili-Tarugi is a wonderful example of the fine Renaissance work by Sangallo. The cistern has lion and griffin sculptures holding the Medici crest. The wine cellars in Montepulciano are in the ground under the streets of town and you’ll be invited in as you stop in for a taste of this wonderful refreshment. Do make sure you do go down in these cellars — amazing, fun and interesting. And that’s the upper part of town…..now to get to the upper part of town you enter through the Porta al Prato (13^th century) gate, part of the original walls of the town. Your first stop is the Chiesa di San Bernardo (18^th century). Along the way you’ll pass numerous palazzi along the street coming first to the Palazzo Avignonesi (16^th century). The palazzo is Baroque in style and was designed by Vignola. The Avignonesi family produce a fine wine and still inhabit this palazzo. You’ll see the Column of Marzocco across the corso which has the Florentine lion on the top. Other palazzi along the way are the Palazzo Bucelli, Palazzo Cocconi and Palazzo Tarugi as well as the 15^th century Chiesa di Sant’Agostino at Piazza Michelozzo which was designed by Michelozzo. Across the piazza the Torre di Pulcinella clock tower with Punch, of Punch and Judy fame striking the hours. As you continue up the hill you’ll pass more palazzi and shops until you finally reach the top of the town and Piazza Grande (described at the beginning of this section). As you leave the town, head southwest and you’ll find the Madonna di San Biagio church, which was built in the 16^th century and is a masterpiece by Sangallo. The design was, in part, based on St. Peter’s in Rome. It is a beautiful Renaissance masterpiece. Thursday is market day in Montepulciano.

Pienza is a lovely Renaissance village. The town dates back to the 9^th century (and was known as Corsignano). The town was totally rebuilt (it took 3 years) on orders of Pope Pius II (born here as Aeneas Silvius Piccolomini in 1405) and renamed Pienza (after his papal name) in 1458. The main piazza (Piazza Pio II/Piazza del Duomo) was to be the ideal or model of the perfect Renaissance square, joining the religious buildings with the civil buildings. The piazza is surrounded by beautifully symmetrical and well-proportioned 15^th century buildings (the Renaissance ideal). The duomo is often described as light and airy and contains some important paintings (particularly the Vecchietta masterpiece), a marble tabernacle and carved Gothic choir stalls. The Museo della Cattedrale (Casa dei Canonici) has some fine paintings and Flemish tapestries from the 15^th and 16^th centuries. The Palazzo Piccolomini (the pope’s residence) offers a tour of the home of this once powerful family. Of particular interest will be the magnificent views from the rear of the palazzo — the hanging gardens and courtyard. Descendents of the Piccolomini family lived here until the late 1960s. Market day is Saturday in Pienza.