Siracusa/Syracuse
is a must for anyone visiting Sicily (if only for the archeological
treasures). It's a white-washed city on the sea - an ancient
city - rustic and worn. I basically divide the town in half:
the old town, Ortigia (an island reached by a bridge)
and the former Neapolis or archaeological area. Siracusa
was a very powerful city in the ancient Greek world - it rivaled
Athens as a "super power". I usually start in Ortigia/Citta
Vecchia (old city) my favorite area......I cross the bridge
and head for Piazza del Duomo. On the way in, passing
the Tempio di Apollo/Temple of Apollo on Piazza
Pancali. These are ruins of a 6th century
Doric temple (not much is left but a few columns however). Nearby
(in the morning) is the most fabulous market (fish) - here you'll
hear the market people shouting out what they have to
sell - it's a mini opera and thoroughly enchanting. The duomo
(7th century) is a mix of many styles of architecture
(first glance - Baroque facade). The duomo was built upon the
Greek temple of Athena/Athenia and the columns
from that temple are evident (yes, those columns are that old
- 5th century). Adding more interest are the Gothic,
Rococo and Byzantine decorations. Do make sure you see the sculptures/paintings
by Gagini. Back in the piazza you'll see several Baroque palazzi.
At the end of the piazza is the Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla
Badia (St. Lucy is Siracusa's patron saint). This is another
addition to this fine Baroque piazza (the cafþs here are also
a favorite - the piazza is one of the prettiest places in all
of Siracusa). Now head toward the water (which you can see from
every vantage point) and the Fonte Aretusa. It is said
that this fountain/spring links Siracusa to Greece. You'll find
this fresh spring in the wall at the waterfront (when I saw
this fountain recently it needed to be cleaned up). Have a drink
at a café, watch the sunset and enjoy the old town. If
time permits, head to the Museo Regionale (located in
the gorgeous Palazzo Bellomo). In this museum you'll
find paintings, porcelain, folk art and religious art (and a
Caravaggio - Burial of St. Lucy). You'll also see the Castello
Maniace (another castle for Frederick II). In the Neapolis
or archaeological area (it's a park) you'll be in a lovely
setting beyond and above the sea. Here you'll find ruins of
the very large Teatro Greco/Greek Theater (5th
century). The Latomia del Paradiso/Prison of Paradise
has orange trees, grottoes/caves, flora, fauna and more. Of
note is the Orecchio di Dionisio/Ear of Dionysus, a cave
in the shape of an earlobe (Caravaggio named it that because
of the wonderful acoustics here and the shape). The Roman
Amphitheater/Anfiteatro Romano is from the 3rd
century and is totally carved out of rock. Don't miss the Ara
di Ieron II/Altar of Hieron II, the sacrificial altar carved
out of rock (can you imagine - sacrifices). You should then
head to the Villa Landolina and the Museo Archeologica
Regionale Paolo Orsi. Here you'll find a good collection
of Greek artifacts from the Paleolithic, Roman and Byzantine
eras. Market day is Wednesday in Siracusa.