Caltigirone
is a pottery town - everywhere you look - POTTERY! The name
of the town means Hill or Rock of Vases (Arab influence). For
over 4000 years the town has been known as a center for ceramics.
The influence of the Arabs in 828 AD is a time at which the
town's ceramics flourished (and continues to this day). The
walkways, the bridges, the walls, the signs - all have touches
of pottery....and there are Baroque touches throughout the town
too. The Museo della Ceramica outlines the history (to
the present) of ceramics and pottery in this town. The main
squares are the Piazza Umberto and Piazza Municipio. The Scala
di Santa Maria del Monte are the ceramic decorated
stairways/scala (all 142 of them - the symbol of the town) that
connect the old town with the new town (opened in 1606) - at
which point you reach the church of Santa Maria Del Monte.
This church was built in the Byzantine period and has a fine
13th century painting on wood of the Madonna di Conadomini.
If you have time, there are some fine churches in town: The
17th century San Bonaventura Church has some
fine frescoes by Pietro Paolo Vasta and ceramic decorations
inside; Santissimo Salvatore Church where you'll find
a 16th century Madonna by Antonello Gagini; Gesu
Church of the 16th century with the St. Ignatius
altar (majestic), the Nativity by Polidoro Caldara da Caravaggio
and a Pieta by Filippo Paladini; San Francesco All'Immacolata
Church is a fine example of Sicilian Baroque; San Francesco
Di Paolo is where you'll find two fabulous paintings by
Vaccaro; and the San Pietro Church that is covered in
majolica. Market day is Saturday in Caltigirone.
Piazza Armerina
was near to Caltagirone and I decided to head that way to see
the mosaics in the Villa Romana del Casale (a
country villa). Interestingly, the last 50+ years has uncovered
these magnificent Roman mosaics (yes, the Romans were here too!).
The villa was built between the 3rd and 4th
centuries. But, because of landslides, the villa was buried
and only discovered in the last century. The mosaics are reached
via a series of raised platforms that guide you through each
area - most of the mosaics are almost totally perfect (if not
for a few missing stones). You'll imagine the layout of the
villa by the vast mosaic carpet beneath you! The oldest mosaic
is the Piccola Caccia (the little hunt) and the most recent
is the Dieci Faniculle in Bikini (Ten Girls in Bikini) - both
terrific! In the apartment area you'll find Arione (mythical
poet), Eros and Pan and Ulisse. Back in town (Piazza Armerina),
you have a nice blend of medieval and baroque....the local 17th
century duomo with its green dome dominates the town
and is decidedly Baroque. Walk the streets and enjoy the architecture.
Market day is Thursday in Piazza Armerina.