Lombardia: Varenna (Lake Como)

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Lovely and medieval Varenna is located on the eastern shore of Lake Como/Lago di Como…..it’s a charming town – less touristy than the better known towns (and this is the less trafficky side of the lake), yet it offers great vistas, beauty and relaxation. The town is built on a cape with grand mountains all around (gorgeous). My favorite thing to do is to walk the lake front promenade – it’s an ever-changing, flowery and romantic walk – they call it Il Passarella. The "arbored" Il Passarella connects the town center to the lake (catch a boat/ferry and tour the lake and lake towns). Along the walk you’ll pass villas, gardens and boats (views too). The harbor is typical in that you’ll see pastel-colored fishermen’s houses and a small beach – this was once a fishing village. Head up the hill to Piazza San Giorgio (the main square in town). There are several churches on the square including the Chiesa Di San Giorgio with its belfry. This church was built in the 14^th century. Inside you’ll find a polyptych of San Giorgio (saint) by Giovan Pietro Brentani - Saint Giorgio, the Virgin and Saint Peter, a polyptych by Sigismondo de Magistris (Baptism of Christ) and a carved altarpiece (some fine paintings too). The other churches are the Chiesa Di San Giovanni Battista, the Chiesa di Santa Marta and the Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Grazie (now a museum of religious art). The most lovely and important piece in the church is the colored stone sculpture Deposition From the Cross. Varenna also has a castle that dates to 1300 – the Castello Di Vezio. The castle is located on a hill at the top (above the town)…..it’s a climb – take your time. Once at the top, check out your view of Lake Como! There are gardens, a falconer (Il Falconiere), whose name is Luca Castiglioni (he’s from nearby Lecco), a drawbridge, a tower (climb it if you wish) and there’s a small café up here too! There are two spots for taking time to "smell the roses"….the Villa Cipressi and the Villa Monastero (a former Benedictine monastery)….fabulous architecture, gardens, terracing, statuary, views, pathways, grottoes….all cascading beautifully to the shore (a single ticket gets you in to both). The Fiumelatte/river of milk (both a river and a town) are just one km south of Varenna. This is the shortest river in Italy (800 feet) – it falls from the top of town at the Grigna peaks in a noisy, foamy, white rush to the lake below. The Fiumelatte only runs 6 months of the year (from April to September). Stop at the tourist office and you can get a map that takes you from the main square to the Fiumelatte, on to the castle and then back to town. This is a wonderful town!

If your interest goes to rich (and eventful) history – think conquer, liberate, invade, conquer, liberate, invade and ultimately curse…..think legends and archaeology – as well as an artist’s community…..head to the Isola Comacina. Isola Comacina is the only island in Lake Como. You’ll find olive trees, eight ancient churches in ruins, a 15^th century church, a castle (destroyed in the 12^th century), an archaeology site where findings date to the Roman age (a very important site in Lombardy).….and La Locanda Dell’Isola Comacina where you’ll be served a meal that hasn’t changed in 40 years. The views from here are wonderful and the meal consists of a sumptuous antipasto, trout from the lake, chicken, dessert, cheese and wine….the end of your meal is a coffee service which the owner of La Locanda (Benevento Puricelli) concocts the coffee with sugar and brandy, lights it and chooses a vestal virgin (from the audience) to have the first taste (it could be you!). ….all during the concocting he recounts in graphic and theatrical detail the history of the island…..