Lombardia: Milan


Milan is a big city - somewhat industrial - somewhat chic.....always very cool.....always in fashion (literally). My favorite first stop in Milan is the Duomo. The Duomo is located in the center of town and is an extravagant example of Gothic architecture (14th century). It is the third largest cathedral in the world. The spires, of which there are 135, the statuary, the gargoyles and turrets make this one of the most memorable of churches. Inside, there are brightly colored stained glass windows, the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo (in the crypt) and a staircase to the top that offers some of the best views (and fabulous surroundings) of Milan and beyond. The Pinacoteca di Brera is a fabulous museum located in a 17th century palazzo with a central courtyard. In the center of the courtyard stands a bronze statue by Canova depicting a victorious Napoleon. Inside is a collection of paintings (masterpieces) including: The Kiss by Hayez, The Dead Christ by Mantegna, The Marriage of the Virgin by Raphael, Modigliani°s portrait of Moise Kisling, Crivelli°s Madonna Della Candeletta, Bellini°s Pieta, Solario°s Portrait of a Gentleman and many other fine, fine works. If you choose only one museum in Milan - you choose this one. However, if you can fit just one more museum in to your plans, head to the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana. Located near the duomo, this library and picture gallery have much to offer the art lover. On the first floor is the library of Cardinal Federico Borromeo with over 30,000 manuscripts. Upstairs you°ll find the Pinacoteca and works by Caravaggio, Brueghel, Botticelli, Titian, Da Vinci and many others. If only for a cup of coffee (at Il Salotto), I always stop in at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. This is an amazing 19th century shopping arcade often called Il Salotto di Milano (Milan°s drawing room). The floor of the Galleria is a mosaic representing the continents of Europe, Africa, Asia and America and others depicting Science, Art, Industry and Agriculture. One of the loveliest features of the Galleria is the glass and metal dome roof....beneath the dome the floor illustrates the signs of the zodiac (in mosaic) and for whatever reason, you°re supposed to step on the genitals of Taurus (the bull) for good luck.....and who hasn°t heard of the Teatro Alla Scala? The famous (and beautiful) opera house with the grand stage is an 18th century treasure hosting magnificent voices and fabulous productions. The Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Grazie is a lovely 15th century Gothic church. Just next door, in the convent is Leonardo Da Vinci's Cenacolo/The Last Supper mural. Of note, the image of Christ is unfinished - Da Vinci did not feel he was worthy to complete Christ°s image. The Museo Del Duomo is located in the Palazzo Reale (the Royal Palace). Inside you°ll find art and artifacts that chronicle the history of the Duomo. On the second floor of the Palazzo Reale is the Museo Civico D'Arte Contemporanea. This museum has a really fine collection of 19th century Italian works as well as contemporary exhibits. The Museo Poldi-Pezzoli houses a collection of paintings, furniture, tapestries, rugs and porcelain. Some of the best known pieces found here are the Portrait of a Young Woman by Pollaiuolo, Bellini°s Cristo Morto and Lippi°s Madonna, Angels and Saints. Stop by the Castello Sforzesco if you have time. This Renaissance palazzo/fortress now houses the Civiche Raccolte D'Arte Antica - fine art, furniture, paintings and sculpture (in particular Michelangelo°s Rondanini Pieta). The Basilica Di Sant'Ambrogio is a 10th century Romanesque church (originally built in the 4th century). The stark exterior has two bell towers on either side. The inside is far lovelier (and ornamented) than the exterior. There's a big market each Saturday and a smaller daily market in Milano.
 

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