A
beautiful medieval stone bridge (called Ponte Vecchio/old
bridge) arches over the Nervia River separating the two
districts of Dolceacqua (the Terra and the Borga).
The enchanting town is picturesque and interesting to wander
because of the "caruggi" — which are
narrow steeped and partially covered lanes (as wide as alleys)
that wildly criss-cross each other (think photos and memories)
through the old town. Even more unique are the mysterious
dark passages that go underneath the town…..The main
square is the meeting place for this small village and the
Chiesa di S. Giorgio (12th Century) with
it’s Romanesque façade sits proudly in the center
(it was recently renovated). The roof is decorated with
an unusual painted truss-beamed ceiling and in the crypt
are two tombs from the Doria family (Princes of Genoa).
The ruins of the Doria Castle (there’s a ghost
here called Filomena) sits on the hillside overlooking the
town, the caruggi and the main square (as guards once did
from the square towers on either side of the castle ruins).
You can climb to the top of the hill in the old town (through
the caruggi) and walk the ruins and enjoy views over the
entire area. The parish church, the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio
Abate is a good example of Baroque architecture with
its bell tower built in to the original town walls. The
contemporary and modern museum of art is called Pinacoteca
Civica G. Morscio and is worth a visit. A relatively
new sight in Dolceacqua is the Visionarium where
you can take a virtual tour of the Nervia Valley through
the seasons of the year. The hills of town feature terraced
vineyards that produce the local specialty Rossesse di
Dolceacqua and you can visit wineries in the area. Market
day in Dolceacqua is Thursday.
Bordighera
is a lovely beach town that is relaxed and hospitable.
Long ago many illustrious personalities built villas here
and today these lovely villas line the streets (as hotels,
private homes and shops). There are two sections of town:
the new and the old. I particularly like the Citta
Vecchia/Citta Alta (old town — it’s only
500 years old — a mere pup compared with the rest
of the country) with its town gates, walls and twisting
streets. The statue of Magiarge sits in front of
the town hall and is very beautiful (this statue commemorates
a slave who died when captured by the Saracens). The Romanesque
church of Santa Maria Maddalena (17th
century) has a campanile/bell tower that was once a Saracen
watchtower. Capo Sant’Ampelio is where the
hermit of Thebaid (aka Sant’Ampelio) lived. Thebaid/Sant’Ampelio
arrived here (at the natural harbor) in the 4th
century and became the town’s patron saint. Do make
sure you stop in at the Capella di Sant’Ampelio,
a small church built in his honor (his relics are here).
The Chiesa di Madonna dei Fiori has an interesting
nativity scene and scenes from the life of Jesus. The
Marabutto is the ancient coastal battery located
on a rocky spur. Villa Etalinda (once owned
by the Queen of Savoy) is worth a stop if only to compare
it to the paintings by Monet. There are plenty
of gardens and walks to be taken — relax — enjoy.
The Argentina Promenade is 2km long and passes
gardens, beaches and friendly folks — a great gathering
place. The grand stradas with cafes, villas and hotels
are an enjoyable stroll and gander…..and here’s
an interesting fact: The Vatican gets their woven palms
(called palmureli) for Palm Sunday from Bordighera! They’ve
been providing this service for over 100 years. Who knew?
Try the cubaite — it’s a sweet treat found right
here in town! The town next door is called Ospedaletti
and is a smaller version of Bordighera (if you like it
a bit slower, stay here).
Apricale
is a beautiful hilltop medieval village (9th
century) with prehistoric roots. The town is just 8 km
from the sea and about 4 km from Dolceacqua…..but
here, you’re totally in another world — this
is a beautiful charming and interesting little town (filled
with frescoes and murals). The town centers about the
11th century Castello della Lucertola
(Lizard Castle) and the village circles and falls down
the hill from there — terribly evocative (if you’re
driving, park the car, the streets are narrow). The castle,
today, is a town museum and exhibition center — there’s
something going on here all the time (art shows, concerts,
meetings — very neat). The museum offers history
and legends as well as local artifacts of the town (note
the architecture and frescoes inside). The town is characterized
by stone walls and buildings, alleys, arches, flowers,
frescoes and views…..totally wonderful — thoroughly
beautiful. The 13th century Chiesa Cimiteriale
di Sant’Antonio is characterized by a mix of
Gothic and Baroque arches. The Oratorio di San Bartolomeo
is a 12th century church with a 16th
century wooden polyptych. The Chiesa della Madonna
degli Angeli has lovely frescoes. In the lower town
you’ll find a pretty fountain/Fontana. This
is a lovely little village.
