Rome/Roma……where
to begin……my favorite piazza — The Piazza
Navona — centro storico! More often than not,
I stay within this general area. In 15 or 20 minutes
I can walk anywhere in Rome (or walk and then hop a
cab). The Piazza Navona
is a gorgeous square with 3 fabulous fountains
(bring film). The piazza is built on an ancient stadium
(thus the shape). It’s a great place to be at any
time of the day or night — totally pedestrian.
Surrounding the piazza are shops, cafes (do stop in
and have a drink or just relax with friends — people
watch), some Baroque palazzi (with balconies spilling
flowers) and the Baroque Chiesa di Sant’Agnese
in Agnone. The center fountain is a masterpiece
by Bernini called the Fontana dei Fiumi (Fountain
of Four Rivers — 17th century). The
rivers are the Danube, the Ganges, the Rio di la Plata
and the Nile — they represented the four corners
of the earth. You can buy art in the center of the piazza
as there are many artists selling their work and there
are tourist kiosks for that last minute soccer scarf
(for your brother or nephew) among other things. There’s
something going on here day and night and the streets
behind the piazza have bars and cafes. The Pantheon
(at first sight) is unbelievable. It is called the most
perfectly preserved building of ancient Rome (and it
is so perfectly preserved). The temple, (dedicated to
the planetary gods) was built by Marcus Agrippa (son-in-law,
friend and general of Augustus) in 27 BC. The temple
was converted into a church in the 7th century.
You can clearly see Agrippa’s name over the entrance.
The doors at the entry are the originals. It’s
free to go in — so do! Inside you’ll find
a vast circular room/space with tombs of Italian kings,
Raphael (the artist) and Victor Emanuele II and Umberto
I. These tombs/niches are where the statues of the planetary
gods once rested. The Pantheon is the same height and
width (143 feet). The dome of the rotonda has an opening
in the center and the floor beneath slopes in order
to allow rain to drain (when it rains). La Maddalena
is near the Pantheon. It’s a beautiful Rococo/Baroque
church inside and out (such decorations). The Chiesa
di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is a 13th
century church built on the site of the ancient temple
of Minerva. Inside you’ll find Michelangelo’s
statue (the Risen Christ) and frescoes by Lippi. Just
in front of the church is a statue of an elephant supporting
an obelisk (Egyptian) — it’s by Bernini. Sant’Ignazio
di Loyola is a 17th century church built
in honor of St. Ignatius founder of the Jesuits. This
is Baroque to the unbelievable MAX! Precious stones,
marbles, metals, gilt and ornamentation have not been
lost on this church. The ceiling is fabulous (Pozzo)!
The Piazza Colonna is a busy square with a 2nd
century Colonna di Marco Aurelio/Marcus Aurelius
(the decorations on the column depict military victories).
The Fontana di Trevi (18th century
fountain/statue by Nicola Salvi) is a huge statue, fountain
and pool in a crowded and small square — it’s
amazingly gorgeous. Do see it both at night (when it
is lit) and during the day. It is a major landmark in
Rome. The figure/statue in the center represents the
ocean/Neptune with Health and Fertility on either side.
This is the fountain where with your back to the fountain
you throw a coin over your shoulder to assure a return
to Rome. Another legend has it that you throw in 3 coins…one
to fall in love in Rome, one to be kissed in Rome and
the final one to assure your return to Rome. Moving
on we head toward the Piazza di Spagna, the Fontana
della Barcaccia (boat shaped fountain — 17th
century/Bernini), the Scalinata della Trinita dei
Monti (the beautiful Spanish steps) and the Trinita
dei Monti (twin towered church at the top of the
steps). The steps are a popular attraction for tourists.
The steps (all 137 of them) lead to the 16th
French church with some fine paintings and frescoes
inside. Nearby, (at the bottom right of the steps as
you face them) is the Keats-Shelley Memorial House.
Keats died here in 1821. The shopping street, the Via
Condotti is directly off the piazza and has some
fine shops (yippee). The Piazza del Popolo is
a fabulous and beautiful oval piazza where several roads
meet (Via di Ripetta, Via del Corso and Via del Babuino).
This was the main north entrance to town (in ancient
Roma), the Porta del Popolo (opened in the 3rd
century and was decorated in the 16th century).
The Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo (next to
the porta) was an 11th century chapel and
enlarged in the 13th century. Inside there
are frescoes by Pinturicchio, paintings by Caravaggio
and tombs by Sansovino (this is a must see). In the
center of the oval is the Egyptian obelisk (moved
here in the16th century). The two Baroque
churches (twin churches) where the roads converge are
the Santa Maria dei Miracoli and the Santa
Maria in Montesanto. I like to sit here (in the
center) and watch the world (and cars) go by or just
take a break before more touring. The Pincio hill
with the "veranda gardens" leads to a nice
park with great views. If you go up the Pincio hill,
you can reach the beautifully elegant Villa Borghese
(17th century) and gardens - the setting
is gorgeous. Today the Villa Borghese houses the Museo
e Galleria Borghese with paintings by Raphael, Correggio,
Caravaggio and Titian and sculptures by Bernini and
Canova. The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna
has a good collection of Italian art (paintings and
sculpture) dating from the 19th century to
the present day. In the same area is the Museo Nazionale
Etrusco di Villa Giulia (16th
century). This is a terrific collection (and wonderful
setting) of Etruscan artifacts from the Rome area. Here
you’ll see some special pieces: the Cista Ficoroni
(3rd century BC), the statue of Apollo, the
reclining Sarcophagus of the Married Couple and much
more. You can head to the Palazzo Barberini (17th
century) and the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica
with fine paintings by Tintoretto, Caravaggio, Raphael
and Lippi. The next area of concentration is the Colosseum
and Forum area. The Colosseo (think gladiators)
was built in 80 AD is known as the Flavian Amphitheater
(family name of the founder — Emperor Vespasian).
It truly is a classical piece of architecture (with
Ionic, Doric and Corinthian columns). It could seat
up to 60,000 people and the people were seated according
to their rank in society...just to the side of the Colosseo
is the Arco di Constantino/Arch of Constantine.
The arch was built in honor of Constantine’s victory
over Maxentius in 312 AD. Next we head to the Foro
Romano/Roman Forum. The Forum was the center
of Rome — political, commercial and religious.
Hundreds of years of building an entire civilization
are represented here. Excavations began in the 19th
century and continue today. It’s interesting to
see the work being done as you visit the area. Once
inside (and the Forum is free), you see (and imagine)
what life was like in ancient Roma. You enter from the
Via dei Foro Imperiali and head right in….here
you will see the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina
built in 141 AD (dedicated to Empress Faustina). It
is now the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda (8th
century) with some interesting frescoes. Nearby (and
to the right) is the Basilica Aemilia (179 BC).
Once you reach the Via Sacra you see the Curia Iulia/Senate
House where today Trajan’s low reliefs/panels (Anaglypha
Traiani/Plutei di Traiano) illustrate his life. Just
in front of the Curia is the Lapis Niger (black
marble) which covered the tomb of Romulus. The Arco
di Settimio Severo (203 AD) is nearby (and well
preserved). It was erected in honor of the emperor and
his sons and their victories over the Parthians. Only
3 columns remain of the Tempio di Vespasiano
(1st century temple). Nearby are the Tempio
della Concordia, now in ruins and the Portico
degli dei Consenti (dedicated to the 12 Roman
deities) which is now 12 columns. The Tempio di Saturno
(497 BC) was the treasury for the city, now 8 granite
columns remain. The law courts/justice courts were housed
in the Basilica Giulia. The Colonna di Foca/Column
of Phocas was erected in 608 AD in honor of Emperor
Phocas. The Temple of Julius Caesar/Tempio di Giulio
Cesare, built in 29 BC was built on the site where
Caesar’s body was burned. The Tempio di Castori
e Polluce (489 BC) is now 3 beautiful columns and
a symbol of Rome. The Tempio di Vesta (temple
of the Vestal Virgins) is near the Casa delle
Vestali (house of the Vestal Virgins). This shrine
(the temple) was dedicated to the goddess of the hearth.
The virgin goddesses (aged 6 to 10 years) and the priestess
protected the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta
and lived in the Casa delle Vestali. If the flame
went out in the temple, it was considered a bad omen
for the city. The virgins were chosen from noble families
and served for 30 years. During that 30 years the virgins
took a vow of chastity. If a Vestal Virgin lost her
virginity, she would be buried alive (as her blood could
never be spilled). The man in question would be beaten
to death. If the flame in the temple went out, the virgin
in charge of the flame would be beaten to death (a question:
wouldn’t she bleed if she were beaten?). Moving
on, we come to the Basilica di Constantino/Basilica
di Maxentius (315 AD) with its 3 arches. This basilica
inspired many Renaissance artists (including Michelangelo).
Next to the basilica is the Arco di Tito/Arch
of Titus (81 AD) which was erected to honor the
capture of Jerusalem. The Palatine hill (above
the forum on the hill) is the next area to discover
(and to enter this area you have to pay). This is the
site of the Imperial Palace (Domus Flavia, Domus
Augustana and Stadio). This is where the emperors and
nobles lived. This is also where Remus and Romulus
were found (The legend is basically that Remus and Romulus
were brught up by a she-wolf. Romulus killed his brother
and founded Rome. There are traces of the huts that
date back to the 8th century here on the
Palatine). Don’t miss the Casa di Livia
(fine frescoes). Do check out the pavements in the Domus
Flavia. The palace of Septimius Severus/Domus
Augustana were the private quarters for emperors.
Today it’s a pretty area and the Orti Farnesiani
are worth a stroll (great views over the forum and beyond
— bring film). You’ll note that throughout
the Colosseo and the Forum are many cats just reclining
on the ruins….they’re called the Gatti
di Roma (cats of Rome) and this is where they
live. I wonder, is this where Andrew Lloyd Webber got
his idea for his musical Cats? The Fori Imperiali/Imperial
Forums were built by Caesar, Augustus, Trajan, Nero
and Vespasian when the confines of the Roman Forum could
hold no more — in a word: growth. Each started
with a temple and added court buildings, markets and
monuments. Nothing remains from Nero and Vespasian,
but you can clearly see the Foro di Cesare (3
columns from the Tempio di Venus Genitrix) and the Foro
Augustus (columns from the Tempio di Mars Ultor).
The best is the Foro di Traiano/Trajan’s Forum.
Here you’ll see the wonderful Colonna Traiana/Trajan’s
Column with scenes from his many victories over
the Dacians. The Mercati Traiano/Trajan’s Markets
are also well preserved (your basic shopping mall).
Heading back down the Via Foro dei Imperiali
toward Piazza Venezia (big traffic area and physical
center of town) we come upon the Vittoriano,
a monument to Vittorio Emanuele II (first king of united
Italy). It’s absolutely huge! It’s made of
bright white marble, has stairs, fountains and is topped
with columns. The Altare della Patria is here
as well as the tomb of the unknown soldier. It is called
many things: the wedding cake, the typewriter and the
dental monument (because it resembles all of these things).
I find it lovely. Across the street (Piazza) from the
Vittoriano is the Palazzo Venezia (Renaissance)
which houses a museum (Museo di Palazzo Venezia)
with a collection of jewels, paintings, ceramics and
sculptures. Part of the palazzo is the Basilica di
San Marco (4th century) with a fine mosaic
in the apse. Above and just behind the Vittoriano Memorial
is the Piazza del Campidoglio/Capital Square.
The Campidoglio/Capitalino hill is one of the
7 hills of Rome. This was the political center of the
empire. It is today as well (the municipal government
is here). On three sides of the piazza are palazzi:
the Palazzo dei Conservatori (15th
century) is a museum which has the Il Spinario/Boy with
a Thorn, Esquiline Venus, Medusa, the Capitoline She
Wolf and some fine paintings by Titian, Caravaggio,
Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Veronese and others; the Palazzo
Nuovo (17th century) houses the Museo
Capitalino with the Dying Gaul, Discobolus, the
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius and the Mosaic
of the Doves from Hadrian’s Villa (Tivoli) among
other treasures; the Palazzo dei Senatori (12th
century) which is the official residence of the mayor
as well as the town council. There are some great views
(bring your camera) over the Forum, just go to the right
of the Palazzo dei Senatori. By the way, the piazza
and the facades of the palazzi were designed by Michelangelo.
To the left of the Piazza del Campidoglio is the Chiesa
di Santa Maria in Aracoeli (13th century).
You reach the church by climbing up the medieval stairs
(and it’s a climb). The stairs were built to commemorate
the end of the plague (1348). The façade is plain,
but inside there are chandeliers, Cosmati pavements,
frescoes (Pinturicchio and Cavallini), columns and a
fabulous gilded ceiling. Heading towards the Jewish
Ghetto is the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin
(6th century). This church is noted for its
marble inlaid floor (work by the Cosmati), the throne,
canopy and frescoes. In the wall of the portico is the
Bocca della Verita (mouth of truth) — big masked
face on a disk. Go ahead — stick your hand in!
Legend says that if a liar put their hand in the mouth
the jaws would shut! In actuality, the disk is thought
to have been a drain cover. Also in the area is the
Teatro di Marcello, one of the largest theaters
in Roma (11th century). It is still used
today. If you head away from the Piazza Venezia and
down Corso Vittorio Emanuele you should stop in the
Chiesa del Gesu (16th century). This
is the major Jesuit church in Rome with a Baroque interior.
The frescoes on the dome and the luxurious ornamentation
inside are just gorgeous. Further on, back on the Corso
Vittorio Emanuele you come to the Area Sacra dell’Argentina.
This is a busy traffic center, so be careful when crossing
the street (Largo di Torre Argentina). These are ruins
of 4 temples from the Republican times and date back
to 101 BC. Note the cats living in these ruins…..what
a riot! Continuing in the same direction we pass the
17th century domed church Sant’Andrea
delle Valle. The frescoes in the dome and the paintings
in the chapels are wonderful. I usually turn left at
the Museo Barracco and head in to another of
my favorite squares — the Campo dei Fiori.
There’s a terrific market held here every day and
there are some wonderful trattorias for lunch or dinner.
There’s been a market here since the 1500s. Public
executions were held in this square. The statue
in the center is of Giordano Bruno, a philosopher and
scientist who was burned here in 1600. On a more positive
note, I often start my day here and shop for what I
might want to snack on for lunch (olives, cheese and
salami)…..I usually stay (my hotel) around here
as Piazza Navona is just across the Corso Emanuele.
Just behind the Campo dei Fiori is the Palazzo Farnese
(now the French Embassy). The two large tubs/baths in
front of the palazzo were built with material from the
Baths of Caracalla/Terme di Caracalla. While
the baths are not in this area (they’re at the
Aventine Hill - not close). At any rate, these baths/ruins
accommodated over a thousand people at a time. They
were built in 212 AD. Going to the baths (really a spa)
was a big event in the day for ancient Romans. The baths
included galleries, shops, meeting rooms, gardens and
other social diversions. Back to this area…there’s
some wonderful wandering to be done in and around these
streets….The Ara Pacis Augustae/Altar of Peace
was built (9 BC) to celebrate the peace earned through
Augustus’ victories in Spain and Gaul. The reliefs/carvings
are exceptional. If you head back to the Corso Vittorio
Emanuele you can walk directly to Vatican City/Citta
di Vaticano. You simply head straight and cross
the Tiber/Tevere River (just over the bridge). You’ll
see the imposing and circular (looks like a drum) Castel
Sant’Angelo first (just off to the right).
I usually see the Castel Sant’Angelo and cross
the river right in front of this unique structure. The
bridge is called "The Bridge of Angels"
(Ponte Sant’Angelo) as the bridge is lined with
beautiful angel statues. This was a fortress (and prison)
built in 135 AD (as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian).
Today the castle is a museum (Museo Nazionale
di Castel Sant’Angelo) with paintings, ceramics,
arms and the actual castle and it’s history. The
views from here are terrific. Here’s an interesting
factoid: there’s a tunnel (Il Passetto)
that connects the castle with the Vatican palaces…..a
virtual escape route. Heading toward Vatican City we
reach Piazza di San Pietro/St. Peter’s
Square. It is just a gorgeous architectural masterpiece
by Bernini. On either side of the entry to the square
are the pair of colonnades with 284 columns and at the
top of the columns 140 statues of saints. In the center
of the square is an obelisk (1 BC) brought here
from Heliopolis (Egypt) in 37 AD. There are also two
splashy fountains on either side. All in all —
a perfect square…..as you pass through the square
you head toward the majestic St. Peter’s Basilica/Basilica
di San Pietro. The first church built here was in
the 4th century. This church was built and
rebuilt over time until a new plan for the church was
decided upon and finally completed in the 16th
century. There are so many beautiful things in and about
this church. Enter on the right side and you immediately
see Michelangelo’s Pieta from the 15th
century (behind glass because of a terrorist/vandal
with a hammer in 1972). Continuing in to the church
you’re struck by the ornate Baroque-ness of it
all. Bernini and Giacomo della Porta did a fine job.
It’s so huge a space too — yet it’s perfectly
proportioned. The Baldacchino/Baldaquin by Bernini
(the canopied altar) in the center of the church is
in bronze (taken from the Pantheon). Michelangelo’s
dome and balconies are also masterpieces and can
be seen up close if you wish to go to the roof of the
church (stairs or elevator — either way it’s
a long way up). From up here there are views over all
of Rome. In the nave is a 13th century statue
of St. Peter (you’ll see pilgrims kissing
his feet — that’s why they’re so worn
looking). Throughout the chuch are the tombs of the
popes. The monument to Pope Alexnder VII is the
last work by Bernini in the church (note: Truth, Justice,
Prudence and Charity). The Museo Storico-Artistico/Tesoro
di San Pietro is just off the left aisle. The Sacre
Grotte Vaticane/Sacred Grottoes are where
the popes are buried and where continued excavation
has founded many treasures including part of the original
church and St. Peter’s tomb. The next stop: the
Vatican Museums/Musei Vaticani. The collections
are in the papal palaces. I’m amazed at the art
collected here by the popes. The Sistine Chapel
is in this series of museums. I try to get here early
in the day as there’s so much to see, it takes
time and there are long lines (that do in fact move,
but are daunting when you first approach). There are
four tours offered here — from a couple of hours
to more than a couple of hours — you cannot see
and absorb it all in one trip — not even close
— return on the next trip…..The many museums
and galleries here are: The Museo Gregoriano Egizio
— Egyptian; Museo Chiaramonti — statues/sculptures;
Braccia Nuova — statues/sculptures including
Augustus and the Nile; Museo Pio-Clementino —
sculptures/statues including Apollo Belvedere, Laocoon,
Perseus, Hermes and the Belvedere Torso; Museo Gregoriano
Etrusco — Etruscan artifacts from the area;
Galleria degli Arazzi — tapestries; Galleria
delle Carte Geografiche — maps; Stanze
di Raffaello/Raphael (4 rooms) — the apartments
of Julius II decorated by Raphael, and works including
the School of Athens, Disputation of the Sacrament,
Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple, Mass of Bolsena
and the Liberation of St. Peter among others; Cappella
Sistina/Sistine Chapel — the private chapel
of the pope and the fabulous ceiling frescoes by Michelangelo
— the Creation, the Flood, the Last Judgement,
Prophets, Sibyls and other scenes from the Bible; Pinacoteca
Vaticana — paintings by Italian masters; there
are other small museums here….again, it takes several
trips to see it all. Trastevere is a separate
area from the rest of Rome — kind of funky, kind
of fun, artsy, galleries — lots of bars and trattorias/trattorie.
Also here is the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere
originally a 3rd century church, said to
be one of the first Christian churches. The façade
and mosaics (inside and out) date to the 12th
century — do see the apse. The Basilica di Santa
Cecilia in Trastevere (9th century) is
a church dedicated to St. Cecilia (remains inside) built
on the site of Cecilia’s husbands house and there
are mosaics and frescoes as well as a lovely statue
of St. Cecilia in front of the altar. Nearby or in the
same general area are San Pietro in Montorio
and the Tempietto (15th century church
and 16th century temple). The church has
a Flagellation by Sebastiano del Piombo and in the cloister
is Bramante’s temple — great views from the
esplanade in front of the church. Villa Farnesina
is a masterpiece of the Renaissance (architecturally).
Chigi (a wealthy banker) commissioned it as a "getaway
and a place to entertain"…..inside frescoes
and paintings and décor by Raphael, Sebastiano
del Piombo, Peruzzi and Beccafumi. Palazzo Corsini
houses the Nazionale d’Arte Antica with
a fine collection of paintings by Van Dyck, Rubens,
Caravaggio and Fra Angelico. Now we head to some fine
churches (and a few other places) worth seeing for various
reasons (but not necessarily in an area with lots of
other attractions)….San Pietro in Vincoli/St.
Peter in chains (5th century) is a church
worth seeing because of the statue of Moses by Michelangelo,
the tomb of Julius II and the chains of St. Peter below
the altar. Santa Maria Maggiore is a major basilica
in Roma (one of the 4 patriarchal basilicas). It was
built in the 5th century and is a combination
of many architectural styles (Baroque, Renaissance etc.).
The church is known for its wonderful mosaics (inside
and out), as they are some of the oldest mosaics in
all of Rome (Old and New Testament depictions). The
bell tower/campanile is the tallest in Rome.
In the piazza (Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore) in front
of the church is the bronze statue of the Virgin and
Child on an ancient column/colonna. The Museo Nazionale
Romano is located in the Diocletian baths (part
of them). The baths date to the 4th century.
Here you will find Roman antiquities, sculpture and
paintings. Also utilizing the Diocletian baths is the
Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli which was
designed by Michelangelo. San Giovanni in Laterano
is another of the patriarchal basilicas of Rome, the
first, making it Rome’s cathedral. It was
founded in the 4th century. Here you will
find a beautiful façade with statues of Christ
and the Apostles. The bronze doors were taken from the
Curia (at the Foro Romano). Inside there are paintings,
tombs, frescoes and a Gothic Baldacchino (over the altar).
The cloisters are beautiful and have pavements by the
Cosmati artisans. The Scala Santa/Holy Staircase
are located in the building on the east side of the
basilica. They are said to have come from the palace
of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem. At the top of the stairs
(which you can only climb on your knees) is the Sancta
Sanctorum/Papal Chapel with relics, frescoes and
mosaics. The Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura
is another of the major basilicas of Rome and was built
in the 4th century on the grave of St. Paul.
The interior is especially beautiful with marble, mosaics,
reliefs, paintings and statues. Of particular interest
is the Gothic ciborium at the altar, the cloister and
the campanile/bell tower (note the shape — often
called a lighthouse). An attraction that you must go
to with a guide are the Catacombes/Catacombs.
These underground tombs offer a view in to the lives
of early Christians through paintings, underground churches
and decorations. The main ones on the Via Appia Antica
are the Catacombe di San Callisto, Catacombe di San
Sebastiano and Catacombe di Domitilla. Well……this
will give you a good start — do drop in on the
many other squares, churches, palazzi and areas I may
have neglected. Stroll, roam and discover your own favorite
places.