Lazio: Tuscania, Cerveteri & Tarquinia

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Tuscania is a small walled village with Etruscan origins. There are many necropolises in the area. The most famous is the Madonna dell’Olivo with paintings, sarcophaguses and lots of tunnels. Other necropoli to see are the Pian di Mola (a house tomb), Peschiera and Carcarello. Just outside of town is the church of San Pietro. This church is built on top of an Etruscan acropolis, has a pretty exterior, a rose window and a crypt with a series of columns (dating from different periods). In the valley is the church of Santa Maria Maggiore (similar to and some say modeled after St. Peter’s) with 3 decorated portals. Inside there is a fresco of the Last Judgement (14^th century) and the Twelve Apostles. The Rivellino Theatre usually has a good show/program going on — check the local listings. Just behind the theatre is the Palazzo Comunale, the Chiesa di Santi Martiri and the former Chiesa di Santa Croce with a 14^th century fresco of the Ascent of Christ to Calvary. Other churches to see: Cattedrale di San Giacomo (tabernacle and paintings), Santa Maria della Rosa (architecture), Chiesa di San Silvestro (fresco of the Tree of Life), Chiesa di San Francesco (in partial ruins) and Cappella di Sperapane (fresco of the Crucifixion). Walk the village to see the beautiful palazzi and do check out the views from the castle walls and the Piazza Tor di Lavello. Market day is Friday in Tuscania.

Cerveteri is the home of the Necropoli Etrusca (Etruscan Necropolis). Excavation of the site (located 2 km from the medieval hill town of Cerveteri) did not begin until the 20^th century. Most of the "finds" are located in the Vatican Museums in Rome and the Villa Giulia (also in Rome). The Etruscan cemetery is called Banditaccia. It is a testimony to the Etruscans (and their belief in an afterlife) that the town is planned out and quite beautiful. The main streets (they’re about 1.5 miles long) and the side streets are lined with tombs and burial chambers/rooms. They are quite unique. Do note the difference between the male and female burial beds (for the man, a column — for the woman, a canopy). The Tumba dei Rivoli dates from the 4^th century and has decorative paintings of everyday household items. You’ll be amazed at this intriguing and haunting site. Market day is Friday in Cerveteri.

Tomb paintings are the draw in Tarquinia and the feel is entirely different here from that at "pretty" Cerveteri. However, the tomb paintings located in the burial chambers make it very worthwhile. The town was called Civita. To preserve the site, they only open a certain number of tombs each day (usually 5). The paintings tell a story of the life of the Etruscans (hunting, dining, gaming, animals, races, demons and flowers). There are well over 6000 tombs of which 60 have the paintings (and lights and steps for tourists). As mentioned, preservation is key here and as time goes by fewer and fewer tombs are open for visits. The town of Tarquinia is medieval, walled and topped with a castle (and some towers). From the top of town you can see the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Church of Santa Maria di Castello (12^th century) is right near the castle ruins and has a beautiful façade and interior (lovely rose window). The central portal on the façade has some pretty Cosmati work. The Romanesque Gothic cathedral/duomo (17^th century rebuilt) has some fine frescoes from the 16^th century (Pastura). The small Chiesa di San Martino (12^th century) has a 13^th century fresco (Sienese). The Chiesa di San Pancrazio is a lovely 13^th century church with a lovely rose window. Do stop in at the Chiesa di Annunziata, Chiesa di San Francesco and Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista. The Museo Nazionale Tarquiniese (in Palazzo Vitelleschi) is also located in the town center. Here you will find Etruscan treasures including the Winged Horses and several Etruscan tombs. The palazzo itself is quite lovely (15^th century). Also worth seeing is the Etruscopolis, located in an old limestone quarry (a short distance from town). You’ll find tombs and rooms (rather detailed) based on everyday life. Market day is Wednesday in Tarquinia.