Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Trieste

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Trieste is an interesting city to me….it was at one time a flourishing center of trade and commerce because of its location (port city to the central European countries). It was a literary and cultural center in the 20^th century (operatic stars and literati spent much time here) and having been owned by the Austrian/Hungarian Hapsburgs, the town has quite a Viennese influence and style. It truly is the crossroads of Central Europe and the East. With all of these influences, the town has some grand squares, palazzi and churches….it’s pretty in a worn type of way — elegant — like your grandmother. Add to that the port flavor and Trieste becomes more interesting and more beautiful. The main square in the lower section of town is the Piazza dell’Unita d’Italia. It is here that you see the Viennese cafes, the Palazzo del Governo, Palazzo del Comune (town hall) with its clock tower and the offices of the Triestino shipping line…..all opening on to the port and sea. All of these buildings were built in the 20^th century. It’s a grand piazza, said to be the largest in Italy. The promenade is a fine place to take a stroll. Your next stop should be the upper town, Colle di San Giusto (views from up here are really terrific). A tram or taxi can get you there quickly or you can walk up (I usually taxi up and walk back down to the harbor). At the top of the hill (Piazza Cattedrale) is the Castello di San Giusto (15^th century). The castle is pretty and you can roam the grounds (great views) or go inside to the museum, which offers a collection of arms, armory and other period items. The Basilica di San Giusto is really two churches that were joined in the 14^th century from earlier churches dating back to the 1^st and 5^th centuries. The Basilica has several styles including Roman and Byzantine. Inside you should check out the frescoes depicting San Giusto (St. Justus/Just, the town’s patron saint), the mosaics and the lovely rose window. If you climb the campanile you’ll be rewarded with great views. There’s a civic museum up here too (Civico Museo di Storia e d’Arte). You’ll find art, religious items and historical items inside. Just behind the civic museum is the Orto Lapidario with pottery and statuary. Head back down the hill to the very fine Civico Museo Revoltella. As you head out of town (going north on the coast road) stop at Castello di Miramare and her gardens (sad history) — gorgeous place. Another stop you should make (if weather and time permit) is at the Villa Opicina and the Grotta Gigante. The villa has a wonderful belvedere and views. You can reach the villa by the road (following the signs) or you can take the funiculare from Piazza Oberdan. The Grotta Gigante is an amazing cave where you can walk around. It is the largest single room cave. There’s a museum here too. Wednesday and Thursday are market days in Trieste.